20 February 2009
Backstage @ Victorinox Fall/Winter 2009

I didn't do Fashion Week full throttle, as there are other projects I'm working on at the moment -- but I did take time out to see a handful of shows, including Victorinox, the maker of the Original Swiss Army Knife. Although this is the first I'm hearing about the line, they must have some pull as they got the venerable Marc Jacobs to take a seat in the front row. See pic below.

In honor of their 125th Anniversary this year, the line had an inaugural showing of its new higher-end 1909 Victorinox menswear collection. 1909 takes its name from the year the Victorinox cross and shield logo was registered. 'The collection is where fashion meets function,' explains creative director Pierre Henri Mattout.

Mattout took inspiration for the collection from a most unusual source: the Amish.

'As I began my research this season, I came across a vintage shop that specializes in Amish clothing,' Mattout explains. 'I became fascinated with their unique, timeless sense of style. They reuse, recycle and pass on their clothing for three and sometimes four generations.'

'I then encountered some Amish teenagers in Times Square on a "rumspringa" year of experimenting away from home', adds Mattout. 'Intrigued how they are encouraged to get a taste of modern Iife before returning to their families, I was inspired to design a collection for a young man with one foot firmly rooted in tradition and the other in a contemporary urban world'.

The collection begins in not-so-basic black with signature pieces like the car-coat length caped trench coat in waxed cotton and styled with a tailored take on padded ski pants in purple, as well as a black felted wool jacket with patchwork-like finishing peeking out on the left lapel.

The collection continues with mineral grey tones for utilitarian suiting, tailored workwear and urban sportswear-inspired pieces styled with varying shades of purple and indigo. Caps and extra-long scarves are crafted from a gradation stripe print in wool jersey that is also seen on a parka and long johns made for the outdoors.

You'll have to see for yourself to get a real sense for the line. Kevin Tachman's pics of the line were taken both backstage and on the runway, but I edited to get mostly backstage shots, as runway shots can be found anywhere and everywhere. To see more runway shots, click here.

 

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